When one takes on a task, he or she is always planning on the tools to be used. Inventory is taken of our current tools to accomplish the task, while tossing around the decision to obtain tools that would make the task go easier, quicker, and sometimes safer. I ran into this recently with a FC siding project I recently took on. I had done many before, using a very primitive method of maintaining level boards and a consistent reveal. This time I was not going to strain and slave over an older method.
I researched the internet on the various tools to use for this application. There were many to choose from, from all sorts of price ranges and methods. I could not see nailing certain jigs through the house wrap, thus defeating the purpose for a proper wrap. I also did not want a method that would hang from the top of the previous course, as it would be difficult to remove it and move to the next row. What I decided on, was what Pac Tool calls their Gecko jig.
The Gecko jig was awesome. It cost roughly $50 ( no tax and free two-day shipping ) and delivered just what I wanted. There were adjustments for various reveals, and a clamping system that I had not seen in any other jigs for this application. The jig ( pair for 12' planks ) slid in from the bottom and clamped down without marring the front of the planks. The next plank slid easily into the grove, and they held on their own. Without any helpers, I was able to hand the lap siding on an area roughly 16 feet high and 30 feet long in less than 6 hours. The reveal remained constant, and the courses level all the way to the final piece. Not only was I much more efficient, but the method was far safer as well, especially on the second story part.
Do your research, get the right tool, and work safer and much more efficient.
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Screw It!
From various home inspections to new construction items, I have seen more failure due to nails being used than probably anything else. I have often grown comfortable with the ease at which a nail fires through a nail gun, and fly through some nailing applications. I can see where this could easily save time, and ultimately make you more money as a builder, but some of these areas where they are being used just comes back to create more work. I am still shocked at the amount of redwood decks that are nailed. With the twisting characteristics of wood over time, there are several lifting issues with decks, and the nail is simply not constructed for this type of hold. Another area that I see a lot of nailing is in sub flooring. I know that there is adhesive applied, and that they are tongue-and-grooved, but they all seem to end up squeaking eventually. I always sister up the nails with screws whenever I have a flooring project, and the squeaks are gone, and there is no play in the flooring.
As nails are being fired at a rapid pace, and the initial bond between two pieces of wood nice and tight, make sure and ask yourself how are these two pieces of wood going to act over time, and will this fastener prevent the two from separating. Keep in mind, nails have best sheer hold, and I would never use them for any other reason. Get acquainted with your screw gun ( impact drivers are the way to go now ) and go easy on the nail guns. They have their places in construction, but don't get carried away. Do it right the first time, and save money and time down the road. As Mike Holmes loves to say, "glue it and screw it".
As nails are being fired at a rapid pace, and the initial bond between two pieces of wood nice and tight, make sure and ask yourself how are these two pieces of wood going to act over time, and will this fastener prevent the two from separating. Keep in mind, nails have best sheer hold, and I would never use them for any other reason. Get acquainted with your screw gun ( impact drivers are the way to go now ) and go easy on the nail guns. They have their places in construction, but don't get carried away. Do it right the first time, and save money and time down the road. As Mike Holmes loves to say, "glue it and screw it".
Friday, September 2, 2011
Decking Tune-up
After recently working on a clients deck, I noticed a couple of things that I wanted to bring attention to. This deck was about twelve feet off of the ground, and the support structure was all out of redwood material. Right off the bat, I saw that the 4x4 posts were twisted quite a bit on the area exposed to the elements of sun and water. As I followed the posts up to the beams, I saw that the twisting action just about pulled the post from under the beam. Not good.
Why is it then when people build decking structures, they feel the need to nail everything and bypass the hardware specifically made for connections like I described above? Nails not only have a tendency to split wooden structures towards the ends and edges, but they are not made to hold up and down, but primarily for sheer ( side to side ) strength. All of the nailed structures of this deck were pulling apart, and the nail heads were already pulling from the surface. My task at hand was fairly simple. I was to provide proper fixes without busting the bank for this client.
Since the support structure was not in a visible area, I opted for a much cheaper alternative, pressure treated lumber. The lumber could be painted to match the parts that were not going to be replaced, and they would provide substantial support. After jacking up a corner of the deck, the twisted post was replaced with a fresh and true 4x4 post. I also replaced the bottom 2x that is between the concrete and post as well. The new post was screwed ( not nailed ) to the hardware at the post base, as well as the new post/beam anchor at the top of the post. No more twisting away from the beam, and no more fasteners pulling from the wood.
There were also a couple of dry-rotted areas around the skirting that was replaced and screwed, as well as a portion of dry-rotted joists that were sistered with more pressure treated lumber. All new items were secured with galvanized square drive screws for proper affixing. Last of the steps was to remove some older deck boards that had some splitting issues, as well as some smaller ones that were replaced with full 20 foot boards. I did find out that this decking was neither 1-1/2" or 1-1/4" thick, but rather 1-3/8". The local redwood supplier milled my order to the proper thickness, and the new boards matched perfectly.
Why is it then when people build decking structures, they feel the need to nail everything and bypass the hardware specifically made for connections like I described above? Nails not only have a tendency to split wooden structures towards the ends and edges, but they are not made to hold up and down, but primarily for sheer ( side to side ) strength. All of the nailed structures of this deck were pulling apart, and the nail heads were already pulling from the surface. My task at hand was fairly simple. I was to provide proper fixes without busting the bank for this client.
Since the support structure was not in a visible area, I opted for a much cheaper alternative, pressure treated lumber. The lumber could be painted to match the parts that were not going to be replaced, and they would provide substantial support. After jacking up a corner of the deck, the twisted post was replaced with a fresh and true 4x4 post. I also replaced the bottom 2x that is between the concrete and post as well. The new post was screwed ( not nailed ) to the hardware at the post base, as well as the new post/beam anchor at the top of the post. No more twisting away from the beam, and no more fasteners pulling from the wood.
There were also a couple of dry-rotted areas around the skirting that was replaced and screwed, as well as a portion of dry-rotted joists that were sistered with more pressure treated lumber. All new items were secured with galvanized square drive screws for proper affixing. Last of the steps was to remove some older deck boards that had some splitting issues, as well as some smaller ones that were replaced with full 20 foot boards. I did find out that this decking was neither 1-1/2" or 1-1/4" thick, but rather 1-3/8". The local redwood supplier milled my order to the proper thickness, and the new boards matched perfectly.
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